On a soft July evening in Durham, North Carolina, shortly before the singing of our National Anthem, John Darnielle holds forth on baseball and breakfast. "Where have you eaten since you've been in Durham?" he asks, adjusting his glasses. "You didn't happen to stop by Loaf this morning, did you? Because if you did, and there weren't any peanut-butter-and-chocolate croissants left, I apologize: I grabbed the last few. They're insane."
The voice and face of much-beloved rock band the Mountain Goats, Darnielle is publicly passionate about a great many things, generous with deftly phrased opinions on sports and music and animal rights. But as he comes alive in Durham Bulls Athletic Park, touting his adopted hometown's ongoing renaissance from within its jewel-box minor-league-baseball stadium, his enthusiasm borders on the evangelical.
"We have so much good food in this town, it is crazy," he enthuses, between bites of a squishy veggie burger, as his sturdy two-year-old son, Roman, "our cookie sommelier," bulldozes a path to a platter of chocolate-chips just within his reach. "You go to these restaurants and you have profoundly good meals. You go to Loaf, you get the best loaf of bread you've ever had for five bucks."
A few blocks away, past the center-field bleachers, the city's once-abandoned downtown is now teeming with vibrant local businesses, including a staggering array of first-rate, farm-to-fork destinations, often natural extensions of already-successful vendors in the bustling Durham Farmer's Market and rapidly expanding swarm of food trucks. Bars, breweries, galleries, and urban farms have sprouted up, while the arrival of luxury condominiums is both luring new residents downtown and providing cause for concern among other Durhamites. Substantial retail operations seem to be finding some footing, and, not far from DBAP, you'll find the Durham Performing Arts Center, a recently built, Carnegie Hall-sized auditorium that has ranked nationally in ticket sales since opening in 2008.
But tonight is the Bulls organization's first official collaboration with another Durham institution: Merge Records, formerly and famously of neighboring Chapel Hill, 10 miles to the southwest, and label home to Spoon, Wild Flag, Arcade Fire, the Mountain Goats, and Superchunk, the pioneering 24-year-old punk-rock band of label co-founders Laura Ballance and Mac McCaughan. Both of whom are here as well, mulling over the catering options alongside Darnielle in the luxury box allotted to the label. At the Bulls' request, Merge has tapped its coveted back catalogue, providing the songs to which every Durham batter will stride to the plate tonight.
The entire stadium is gleaming in high definition, from the pink towers of cotton candy tottering through the aisles to the sweaty trains of light beer changing hands to the batting helmets of the visiting Pawtucket Red Sox, a team whose first, fruitless few at-bats are soundtracked only by narcotic crowd murmurs. But when a relatively propulsive snippet of the Mountain Goats' "The Brothers Diaz" cues up the approach of Bulls third baseman and leadoff hitter Cole Figueroa, all seems right in the Merge box. "Figueroa's got an older brother in the Big Show," Darnielle says to Ballance and her husband, Luc, an esteemed sound-engineer-turned-local-wine-importer. "We want him to go yard at least once tonight, so that he can say to the world that he owes it all to the Mountain Goats." Ballance, bratwurst in hand, cracks a smile and laughs. "John," she says slowly, "This is so weird."
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